Santiago de Alfama

Citorah PickHotel · Alfama

Memmo Alfama

Citorah says A boutique hotel with a red infinity pool.

The catch Its terrace only welcomes guests aged 16 and older.

Citorah PickHotel · Alfama

Heritage Solar do Castelo Inn

Citorah says A boutique hotel in an 18th-century palace and, it says, the only hotel operating within the walls of St George's Castle.

Citorah PickRestaurant · Alfama

Mesa de Frades

Citorah says It's a former palace chapel — properly small, properly tiled in original blue azulejos floor to ceiling — and the fado is the real reason you book.

Wrong for Solo diners (the two-top tables get squeezed against the wall by the door), groups over six, anyone who wants to talk through dinner — silence is enforced when the fadista sings and the waiters will glare.

Citorah PickRestaurant · Alfama

Páteo 13

Citorah says The draw is a vine-shaded courtyard wedged behind the church of Santo Estêvão: on a fine evening, ask for a table outside.

Wrong for Solo diners (the courtyard is two-tops and four-tops, you'll feel staged), groups over five, anyone in a hurry, anyone who needs a card reader.