Citorah says

This is the rice address locals send their cousins to when 7 Portes is full of cruise passengers being walked in two-by-two.

From Best Paella in Barcelona 2026 — 10 Places Worth the Metro, under “6. Casa Delfín — El Born”.

The catch

Wrong restaurant if you're solo, want under €20 a head, or are catching a 16:00 train.

Good to know

Price
around €25 per person for the rice alone
Where
Passeig del Born 36
Getting there
ten minutes' walk from Jaume I on the L4
What to order
the paella de marisco and the arròs negre — squid-ink black rice with allioli that turns your teeth grey for an hour and is worth it
Price
more like €60-70 for two once you've added the escalivada, the croquetes, a bottle of something from Penedès and a vermut to start
Booking
they take bookings on their site and the Born fills by 14:00 every weekend

As the guide had it on 26 Jun 2026. Check prices and hours with the place itself before you go.

  • Citorah PickRestaurant · El Born

    Llamber

    Best for if you're solo or in a pair where one of you hates committing to a wide pan for forty minutes

    Citorah says Fran Heras's Asturian-Catalan taberna has been running since 2012 and the rice it's known for is arròs negre amb allioli — squid-ink rice with a separate quenelle of garlic mayonnaise you fold in yourself, around €18-22 a head depending on whether you split it as a ración-format tapa or order the full pan.

    The catch Wrong for you if you want a wood-fired valenciana on a Sunday-lunch terrace by the sea — go to Barceloneta's Can Solé for that, not the Passeig Marítim photo-menu rank.

  • Citorah PickBar · El Born

    Paradiso

    Citorah says The speakeasy behind a pastrami shop.

  • Citorah PickMuseum · El Born

    Picasso Museum

    Citorah says The Picasso Museum is here (book ahead in summer); the Santa Maria del Mar church is free and extraordinary.

  • Citorah PickSight · El Born

    Santa Maria del Mar

    Citorah says The Picasso Museum is here (book ahead in summer); the Santa Maria del Mar church is free and extraordinary.

The guide it’s in

  • Barcelona · Food & drink

    Best Paella in Barcelona 2026 — 10 Places Worth the Metro

    Ten Barcelona paella spots worth crossing the city for in 2026 — with prices, dishes, neighbourhoods and the tourist-trap rice we tell you to walk past.

    Checked · 18 minResearch-ledSays what to skip

Plan the trip

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